GALATA TOWER

Kuledibi, Beyoğlu - Istanbul - Turkey

GPS : 41°01'32.5"N 28°58'27.0"E / 41.025694, 28.974167



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The galata tower was built in 1384, it was the highpoint in the city walls of the Genoese colony called Galata. During the first centuries of Ottoman era the Galata tower was occupied by a detachment of Janissaries, the elite corps of the Turkish Army. In the 16th century the tower was used to house prisoners of war, who were usualy consigned as galley slaves in the ottoman arsenal at Kasımpaşa on the golden horn. It took its present shape during the Genoese period.

The Tower was heavily damaged during an earthquake in 1509, and it was renewed by the architect, Hayrettin, who was very famous during that period. During the reign of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent (1520-66), it was used as a jail for prisoners who were sentenced to work at the Kasımpaşa Naval Dockyard. The head astrologer, Takıyeddin Efendi, established an observatory on the top of the tower at the end of the 16th century and functioned as an observatory for a particular period of time.

Later, it was closed and again turned into a prison by Sultan Murat III (1546-1595). During the reign of Sultan Selim II (1566-1574) the Galata Tower was used as an observation point by the renowed Turkish astronomer Takiuddin, who had his main observatory in Pera. In the following century, during the reign of Sultan Mustafa II (1695 - 1703) the Şeyhülislam Feyzulah Efendi tried to set up an astronomical observatory in the tower with with the aid of a Jesuit priest, but the effort was cut short when he was killed in 1703.

The Galata Tower was reconstructed on a number of occasions in the Ottoman period, most notably, after a great fire that destroyed much of Galata in 1794 (during the reign of Sultan Selim III) and by Sultan Mahmut II in 1832. the tower's conical cap was blown off during a storm in 1875, and it was not replaced in the subsequent restoration.

The tower was used as a fire-control station until 1964, when it was closed for restoratiom before being opened in 1967 as a tourist attraction. The conical cap was replaced in this restoration, giving the tower much the same appearance as it had in Genoese times, though retaining the changes in fenestration and other structual aspects done in the Ottoman period.

The nine-story tower is 66.90 meters tall (62.59 m without the ornament on top, 51.65 m at the observation deck), and was the city's tallest structure when it was built. The elevation at ground level is 35 meters above sea-level. The tower has an external diameter of 16.45 meters at the base, an 8.95 meters diameter inside, and walls that are 3.75 meters thick.

There is a restaurant and cafe on its upper floors which command a magnificent view of Istanbul and the Bosphorus. Also located on the upper floors is a night club which hosts a Turkish show. There are two operating elevators that carry visitors from the lower level to the upper levels.

Albumen print of the Galata Tower, taken by J. Pascal Sébah between 1875-1895. Here the tower has the cupola that was built after the storm of 1875. The present-day conical top is a reconstruction of a previous one, and was built during restoration works between 1965 and 1967. The tower was built as Christea Turris (Tower of Christ) in 1348 during an expansion of the Genoese colony in Constantinople. The Galata Tower was the tallest building in Istanbul at 219 1/2 feet (66.9 m) when it was built in 1348.

It was the apex of the fortifications surrounding the Genoese citadel of Galata. The current tower should not be confused with the old Tower of Galata, an original Byzantine tower named Megalos Pyrgos (English: Great Tower) which controlled the northern end of the massive sea chain that closed the entrance to the Golden Horn. That tower was on a different site and was largely destroyed in 1203, during the Fourth Crusade of 1202-1204.

The upper section of the tower with the conical cap was slightly modified in several restorations during the Ottoman period when it was used as an observation tower for spotting fires.

According to the Seyahatname of Ottoman historian and traveller Evliya Çelebi, in circa 1630-1632, Hezarfen Ahmet Çelebi flew as an early intercontinental aviator using artificial wings for gliding from this tower over the Bosphorus to the slopes of Üsküdar on the Anatolian side, nearly six kilometres away during the reign of Sultan Murad V. Evliyâ Çelebi also tells of Hezarfen's brother, Lagari Hasan Çelebi, performing the first flight with a rocket in a conical cage filled with gunpowder in 1633.

Starting from 1717 the Ottomans began to use the tower for spotting fires in the city. In 1794, during the reign of Sultan Selim III, the roof of the tower made of lead and wood, and the stairs were severely damaged by a fire. Another fire damaged the building in 1831, upon which a new restoration work took place.
In 1875, during a storm, the conic roof on the top of the building was destroyed.

The tower remained without this conic roof for the rest of the Ottoman period. Many years later, in 1965-1967, during the Turkish Republic, the original conical cap was restored. During this final restoration in the 1960s, the wooden interior of the tower was replaced by a concrete structure and it was commercialized and opened to the public.

Towards the 17th century, it was used  by the Mehter Band, the janissary band of musicians. After 1717, it was used as a fire-observatory tower, butthe tower itself was unfortunately destroyed in a fire in 1794. After it was repaired, a cumba, a little room made of wood, was added to the tower during the reign of Sultan Selim III (1761-1808). After another fire in 1831, Sultan Mahmut added two more floors to the Tower and covered the top of the tower with a famous cloth in the shape of a conical hat.

An inscription written by Pertev Paşa concerning the tower’s repair works was affixedduring that time. After a strong storm in 1875,  the framework of the roofwas damaged and was late repaired in 1960.

GALATA TOWER RESTAURANT

Today, the Galata Tower operates solely as a touristic attraction by a private company. The elevator only goes to the 7th floor, and the last two floors of the tower must be climbed by stairs. After passing though the restaurant on the top floor, there is a balcony that encircles the tower. The restaurant’s view showcases a scene of Istanbul and the Bosphorus.

There are 9 floors above the lofty entrance hall, and the uppermost floor is ringed by an observation deck, open daily from 9:00 to 19:00. The windows in the lover floors are few in number and merely slits, increasing appreciably in size on the sixth and seventh floors. The eight floor has huge round-arched windows while the ninth floor, which now houses a restaurant and nightclub, has smaller windows with give arches.

Menu
Appetizers, Grills, Salads, Desserts, Drinks

Entertainment Program
20:00 - 21:00 : Diner Service, 21:00 - 21:30 : Band begins to play, 21:30 - 21:45 : Folk Dances, 21:50 - 22:20 : Harem Show, 22:20 - 22:35 : Folk Dances, 22:35 - 22:50 : Belly dancer, 22:50 - 23:50 : Showmen Chanteure, 23:50 : Dance Music

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BOTANEIATES PALACE

Cağaloğlu, Fatih - Istanbul - Turkey

GPS : 41°00'48.6"N 28°58'24.4"E / 41.013500, 28.973444



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In 1192, the byzantine emperor gave to the Genoese among other property in the city the so-called palace of Botaneiates, probably former a possession of the emperor Nikephoros Botaneiates (1078-1081) or a member of his family. The palace consisted of a number of houses and pavillons of small or middle size, and two churches arranged around several terraces on different levels, and inclosed by a wall.

The reconstruction is based on the description given by the treaty of 1192. It has been located at the remains of an early byzantine substructure in the northwest of the present Erkek Lisesi, but it is more probable that it lay in the gardens of Topkapı Sarayı somewhere to the west of the Column of the Goths.

Emperor Nikephorus Botaneiates ruled from 1078 to 1081. He (or a close relative) appears to have built a palace, as the unfortunate emperor Isaac II Angelos was obliged to give one of that name to the Genoese in the embarrassing kerfuffle leading up to the 1204 Latin invasion. As the various parties who were to make up the fourth crusade turned the screws on Constantinople, more and more money, properties and concessions were given in response to the demands of the eventual invaders.

Some of the background to the strained relations between Isaac II and the forces of the third crusade (1189 - 1192) can be found here. A treaty of 1192 leaked another driblet of power and property from the shrivelled wineskin of Constantinople into the greedy mouth of Genoa.

In the grounds of the old Istanbul High School (Istanbul Erkek Lisesi) are some Byzantine remains that the academic might of Dumbarton Oaks identified as the Palace of the Botaneiates. West of the handsome late Ottoman school building is this structure.

It corresponds to the kind of brickwork characteristic of a church of the 11th century and a few arches hint at a grandeur that is very much gone. The Byzantium 1200 site has attempted an online reconstruction of the palace but this is based only on analysis of the wording of the 1192 treaty. The site appears to have contained two churches. The other may have been built over the cistern, substantial remains of which can be found downhill from the school.

Along one of the few remaining Byzantine street frontages in Istanbul are several barred windows and doors. The window bars are so old that they have been pulled away so people can dump rubbish inside. The door to the eastern side does not appear to be locked but the weight of trash and the welding of corrosion mean that it can no longer be opened.

So you get in through the window trash chute. I couldn’t find anyone with a key to the other doors. It may be available from the school. You’ll need a rope to get to the bottom. Don’t go soon after heavy rain. Water that adds romance to Yerebatan Cistern merely allows a lot of awful things to bump against your legs and keeps you wondering what horrors lie beneath the surface.

The wonderful Nicholas Artamonoff photographed the cistern in May 1945 and four of his pictures may be found here. My pictures from March 2015 show that little has changed except, if anything, the level of rubbish is lower now. Churches of this period were often built above such cisterns. One can climb onto the roof because the building above is derelict and the resident guard dog is desperate for attention. There’s not much to see.

One final point illustrates the tentative nature of church identification in Istanbul. The Byzantium 1200 site offers the comment that the Palace of the Botaneiates was more likely to have been in the Sarayburnu area. If this is true, this leaves us with no idea of what this place once was.

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GARİPÇE GENOESE CASTLE

Garipçe, Sarıyer - İstanbul - Turkey

GPS : 41°12'50.7"N 29°06'38.3"E / 41.214078, 29.110636



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Situated at the Black Sea entrance to the Bosphorus, Garipçe is one of Istanbul's quaintest villages. Boasting beautiful wooden Ottoman-era houses, a 500-year old Genoese castle and an old church, this small Sarıyer township lies just over 30 km from Taksim. Garipçe's name is derived from the Turkish word Garip, meaning "poor" or "miserable" due to the sense of isolation which used to be inherent in Istanbul's once near inaccessible furthest reaches.

Garipçe village comes from this isolated life the village had lived for a long time. However, today it is very easy to reach the village by your car or the bus that comes by every 35 minutes. These days, Garipçe can be easily reached by bus or car from Istanbul city centre, and is a popular day trip for locals who come here to enjoy a village style breakfast or sea-fresh fish dinner from one of the famous seafood restaurants in the area.

The center of the village, resembling a traditional village circle, stands right on the shore. Here Fish Restaurants. The place, in which businessmen, authors, many researchers from academia have become regulars, is a family restaurant that does not serve alcohol. They offer daily fish choices that they catch in their own boats. In the summer there are usually pilchards, scorpion fish, horse mackerel and striped red mullet. In the winter there is red mullet, turbot, bluefish, bonito, large bonito and anchovy.

Garipçe Village, with its residents almost entirely from the Black Sea region, has managed to preserve its nature and ambiance. One reason for this situation is that the village is a protected area. The town centre is home to interesting examples of Ottoman village architecture and has a scattering of tea houses and restaurants. The surroundings are dominated by beautiful forested areas, making Garipçe a popular place for cycling or hiking.

Immediately on the left, stands the 500 years old Genoese castle. The castle still survives with its arched walls, stepped cuttings and cellars, although it looks uncared for and messy due to treasure seekers. The castle has a seascape panorama, and it is planned to be converted to an underwater museum in the future. One of Garipçe's most popular attractions is its castle, which, although not in the best state, nevertheless survives largely intact and enjoys amazing views over the sea.

One of the most important features of the village is the soft spring, which is said to be good for kidney stones. The spring is known as the Pilgrims’ Water or Hacı Süleyman Spring. The Seaside restaurant is just behind the spring.

Garipçe (strange or curious), or, anciently, Gyropolis, Town of Vultures. This too has a fortress built in 1773 by the Baron de Tott. Here King Phineus lived and here he was plagued by the Harpies who seized his food and befouled his table until he wasted away to a wraith; at last the Argonauts arrived and the winged sons of Boreas, Zetes and Kalais, taking pity on the ancient king, their brother-in-law, chased away the noxious creatures.

In return Phineus, who was a prophet, advised them about the rest of their journey and especially about how to avoid the baleful Symplegades. These, indeed, were clearly visible from his very palace, two great rocks at the mouth of the Bosphorus, one on either side, which were supposed to clash together with great rapidity and violence, thus making it very dangerous if not impossible for ships to enter or leave the strait.

Phineus told the Argonauts to let loose a dove which would fly between them; if it was caught, they were to give up their journey, but if it got through safely, they were to wait till the rocks opened once more and then row their hardest. The Symplegades just shaved off the tailfeathers of the dove and slightly damaged the stern-works of the Argo. The Symplegades, the Clashing Rocks, were also called Cyanean, the Blue Rocks, or in Turkish Öreke Taşı, the Distaff Rock or Midwife’s Stool.

The European one is a striking feature at the very mouth of the Bosphorus, formerly some 100 metres offshore at Rumeli Feneri, the Rumelian Lighthouse. There is a tiny village here and the remains of a fort built in 1769 by a Greek engineer. The Rock, which is now joined to the shore by a concrete mole, is about 20 metres high and something less than 200 metres long, divided by deep fissures into several parts. On the highest plateau stands what is left of the socalled Pillar of Pompey. “The ascent to this peak,” says Gyllius, “is not open except by one approach, and this, extremely narrow, so that one must climb up on all fours.”

Nowadays there are two approaches, one slightly easier than the other, but both disagreeable enough for one who is terrified of heights. The reward of intrepidity is a fine view of the Black Sea and the Bosphorus, and the base of Pompey’s column. It is not really a column base but an ancient altar, decorated with a garlanded ram’s head and other reliefs now much worn; it once had a Latin inscription, no longer legible, the transcription and interpretation of which are matters of discussion.

Certainly neither altar nor column had anything to do with Pompey, and we do not know who first gave it this misleading name: it was after Gyllius’ time evidently, since he does not mention it. He thought the altar was probably a remnant of the shrine to Apollo which Dionysius of Byzantium says the Romans erected on one of the Cyanean Rocks. The column itself, with its Corinthian capital, toppled down in April 1680 and had utterly disappeared by 1800. There is now a simple fish restaurant on the Rock, with its tables set out on the breakwater at the very end of the Bosphorus.

the Karipçe and Poyraz forts were not left the way Baron de Tott had built them and were redesigned with the contributions of Toussaint in 1778, Lafitte-Clavé in 1785 and General Sébastiani (who later became the French ambassador) in 1807. The fort of Karipçe as we see it today presents itself as sort of demi-lune, which form was largely determined by the shape of the rocky plateau on which it was built. Its guns fired in three different directions. On group aimed north in the direction of the Black Sea.

Here an attack at close range was difficult because of reefs out in the sea in front of the work. Seven guns fired directly south and effectively covered the small cove where the village is situated, one of the few places where as small force could venture a landing with the help of small boats. The main function of the fort, however, was to close the Strait in collaboration with its twin on the Asian side, the Fort of Poyraz. For this purpose an impressive battery was built on the extreme southern end of the promontory, able to fire from three levels. There is an open upper platform with guns firing through massive battlements.

The middle level is an imposing heavily-vaulted casemate with guns firing through large embrasures. Due to the terrain this casemate is divided in three sections, each firing in a slightly different direction. At a much lower level is the third battery, where the guns could also fire in three different directions. At present it is not yet entirely clear which part of the fort was built after Baron de Tott’s plans and which was added later. The first impression is that the great casemate is of de Tott’s time and that the lower platform was added later.

It also appears that the open upper platform was added later, or at least modified from an embankment for rifle fire into a battery for guns. The bricks used for its battlements are rather different from those used in the casemate.

The latter are the typically thin tile-like bricks of the 18th century, those on the upper platform are much thicker and of different structure. In the casemate a change was made during the Cold War period, when a single large opening was made in reinforced concrete, allowing one very large and modern gun to fire from it, aiming directly at the entrance to the Bosphorus from the Black sea.

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RUMELİ FENERİ GENOESE CASTLE

Rumelifeneri, Sarıyer - İstanbul - Turkey

GPS : 41°14'15.0"N 29°06'39.0"E / 41.237500, 29.110833



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In the North end of Istanbul, near a village near the Bosporus’s Black Sea end named “Rumeli Feneri”, there’s a Medieval Genoese castle. Rumeli Feneri literally means “Greek land Lighthouse” in Turkish language. The village is named after a historical lighthouse still in use which is located on the European side of Bosphorus’ Black Sea entrance in Istanbul. Rumeli (or Rumelia) is the former name for the Turkish lands in Europe.

The lighthouse was built by the French in order to provide safe navigation for the French and British war ships entering the Istanbul Strait from Black Sea during the Crimean War (1853-1856). The lighthouse is situated on a hillside 58 m (190 ft) high above the sea level and the entirely white painted tower has a height of 30 m (98 ft). It is the tallest lighthouse in Turkey. The tower has the form of a two-staged octagonal prism. Initially, it was lit by kerosene that was later replaced by Dalén light using carbide (acetylene gas).

Today, the light source is electricity, however, a butane gas lighting system is also installed for backup purposes. The Fresnel lens with 500 mm (1.6 ft) focal length allows the white light that group flashes every 12 seconds, a range of 18 nmi (33 km).

 It was captured by Ottomans in 1305, according to the registries, it was under the control of Genoa in 1348. Yıldırım Beyazıt, who captured the castle in 1391, conducted some of his preparations of for the siege of İstanbul from the castle.

In 1576, the castle, the bath, and the mosque inside the castle were renovated. The castle’s existence, was for the first time, mentioned circa 1404 by R.G. Clavijo, who was appointed as ambassador to Samarkand from Spain, The east west length of castle, which was built of stone and brick, is 500 m, and its width ranges between 60 and 120 m.

We stumbled across the castle / fortress by chance, when we spotted it from the sea walls on another bluff, and decided to ride over. Its age seemed indeterminate; it had these old, worn-down looking walls which suggested something like 1770.

The Rumeli Feneri castle is built by the Genoese, but during the Ottoman period, the original medieval fortification was totally redesigned to place many cannon there. Because for many centuries the Black Sea was an Ottoman lake, the change must have occurred in the late 18th century or even later.

Genoese-built Rumeli Feneri castle, approached by a dirt road. The place where it stands is quite large, but much of what can be seen is simply remains of what was once a large castle that was used to protect İstanbul. While here, look out from the castle’s doors out to sea and listen to the sound of the waves hitting the rocks. Sometimes you may even see dolphins playing in the water here.

This tower stands at the northernmost point of the European side of İstanbul and was built with stone and brick during the 17th century under the reign of Sultan Murat IV. At one time, this fortification sheltered 300 soldiers, 60 homes, a fortress, 100 cannons and a mosque. It was used as a police outpost during the early republican years.

Rumeli Feneri castle placed in Europe in the opposite shore of the Yoros castle near the entrance of the black sea. The Yoros Castle is on the top of a green hill that now as long time ago, is occupied by soldiers of the Turkish army. Part of the hill where rise the castle is now an inaccessible military zone. On this subject, we should open a parenthesis for all those who are unfamiliar with Istanbul. Here, inside the city, the only large forests that have withstand to the speculation are those occupied by the army.

This is on the one hand the salvation of places like this hill that would otherwise have been invaded by new construction on the other it is a real pity for all the inhabitants of Istanbul who cannot enjoy these areas and on sunny days are crowded in the public parks and along the shore of the Bosphorus to eat and stay together.

We know that the area of the castle was occupied before the Byzantine time by the Phoenicians and the Greek for trading and military purpose, but the exact date of the foundation is still the date of the castle is still subject of studies. The Greeks called this area Hieron (Sacred Place) and built here the temple honoring Zeus and a temple of Altar of Twelve Gods  where probably the priests held the ritual practices and sacrifices in favor of the gods. Yoros Castle was intermittently occupied throughout the course of the Byzantine Empire.

Within the military museum in Istanbul is still possible to see a part of this chain to be aware of its weight and its enormous size. The castle was the apple of discord between the Byzantines, Genoese, and Ottomans. For several years there was an endless dispute. In 1305 it was conquered by Ottoman forces, then recaptured by the Byzantines. Then, Ottoman retained control of the castle from 1391 until 1414 when they lost it to the Genoese who had built a great trade route on the Black Sea.

The Genoese retained control of the castle for the next forty years, this is the reason why Yoros castle is also called the Genoese castle. Finally, Mehmed the Conqueror took control of Constantinople in 1453, he drove the Genoese out.  He then fortified the walls, and constructed a customs office, quarantine, and check point, as well as placing a garrison of troops there. The castle is now in ruins and it has not suffered heavy restorations as in the case of Yedikule castle.

The last forts at the location where the Bosphorus joins the Black Sea are the Rumelifeneri and the Anadolufeneri Forts the construction of which lasted until 1769. They were first designed by an architect said to be of Anatolian Greek origin and later redesigned by Toussaint in 1783, Lafitte-Clavé in 1785 and finally by Monnier in 1794. However, as they were not found to meet the requirements, batteries were added around them. It is said that one of these batteries was at Fener Burnu and the other at Papaz Burnu.

The Rumelifeneri village is situated on the European side of the Bosphorus, at the point where the straits meet the Black Sea. Located at the entrance to the Black Sea, it is the last settlement of the Bosphorus and takes its name from the lighthouse here. There is very little information on the establishment of the village and its history. The information found in sources concentrate mainly on Rumeli Feneri and the antique column called Öreke Taşı.

In front of the lighthouse there are a few rocks formerly referred to as ‘Simplikades’ and ‘Geant’ and by some writers as ‘Bavonere’. The highest of these rocks, which have been the subject of many legends, has a column piece on it and is therefore referred to as ‘Öreke Taşı’. This column has a partially-effaced inscription in Latin and although it is usually attributed to Pompeus, some writers attribute it to Augustus and more often to Emperor Hadrianus.

At present, in addition to Öreke Taşı and the lighthouse there is a mosque dating to the 19th century in Rumelifeneri village. The mosque is a building with ragstone walls, wooden floors and a hipped roof. The window frames are of brick. Although the Rumelifeneri village is generally known to have been a Greek village, the mosque visible on engravings dated 1817 (Pertusier) and 1854 (Laurens) is a sign that the village had a large Muslim population. Near the mosque there is a small public bath in ruin which is thought to date from the Ottoman period. In addition to a few traditional wooden houses, the village has three historical fountains.

The first is at the centre of the village. Its inscription in Ottoman states the name of Ahmed Ağa. The second fountain is on the way leading from the village centre to the sea and the third on the road from the village to the fort. The inscriptions on the second and third are the same and say that the fountains were commissioned by Gazi Hasan Pasha in 1776-7. This was Cezayirli Hasan Pasha who lived from 1714 to 1790, the famous admiral of the Ottoman fleet, a highly capable man and a real daredevil.

As a matter of  fact, in a document dated 1772 Gazi Hasan Pasha is mentioned as the Minister of War of the Bosphorus Forts and Imperial Captain and also that he was assigned to restore some damaged batteries in the Bosphorus and to replace some of the missing cannons.20 This information leads us to think that Hasan Pasha was also in charge of the Rumelifeneri Fort and that he most probably had water piped from the Bahçeköy dam to the fort and hence had the fountains in the village. Rumelifeneri Fort.

As mentioned above, one of the last forts on the European side, at the location where the Bosphorus opens into the Black Sea, is the Rumelifeneri Fort. It is located north of the village by the same name. It was first built in 1769 by an Ottoman Greek architect whose name is unknown and later restored by Toussaint in 1783, de Lafitte-Clavé in 1785 and finally by Monnier in 1794. No information related to the initial period when the fort was built was found in the research conducted in the Ottoman Archives.

The earliest archive document found is dated 1781 and has information on the winter quarters of the Rumeli and Anadolu forts. This document is an imperial consent to the effect that a total of 10,000 piaster - 5000 piaster to each of the building masters - be paid for the construction of the winter quarters. The second important document referring the fort is one dated 1793 regarding the restoration of the nine forts in the Bosphorus area. We believe that the Rumelifeneri Fort is among these nine. It is also very likely that the restoration work referred to in this document was conducted by Monnier in 1794.

The fort is a stone building measuring approximately 55 m by 70 m situated at the northern tip of a peninsula. It has a rectangular plan with two bevelled corners at the northern facade and is built of volcanic tuff stone except for the brick used in the arch and dome structure. The main wall surrounds a terraced courtyard which has two levels. The eastern and western walls are both topped by an octagonal tower. In the southern section of the courtyard there is a cistern below the courtyard level.

Two hipped-roof buildings are visible on the southern section of the fort’s courtyard in an engraving dated 1817. These buildings have also been indicated on a map dated 1838 in the Topkapı Palace Archives. At present, there is no sign of these buildings on the surface, although excavation might uncover their foundations. The main entrance of the fort is at the south and the sally-port is on the east main wall. The 3.38 m wide main gate is at the centre of the 46m long south facade.

The stairs located within the walls and on either side of the entrance gate provide access to the rampart walk. Although the wall thickness on this side is generally 2.2 m, the part of the wall on either side of the gate is 3.35 m to allow for the stairs. The widest part of the first tower, which we have called Tower A (located on the east side) is 13.78 m. Its exterior side length varies between 5.4 m and 5.9 m. There is a space with an octagonal plan, a height of 5.65 m and covered by a brick dome of 8.97 m in diameter on the lower floor of the tower.

The stairs located within the wall thickness first lead to the rampart walk level and then to the second floor of the tower. The floor of this level which is thought to have been of wood no longer exists. Looking down, one can see the dome of the lower floor. On the top floor, the interior width of the tower is 9.28 m, the wall thickness 2.25 m, the battlement thickness 1.85 m. The B tower on the west is larger than the A tower. Although it was not possible to measure its diameter, the side lengths of the octagon vary between 6.30 m and 6.45 m.

It has been observed that the B tower underwent some changes in the Republic period and that the concrete flooring added has spoiled the original interior arrangement. However, although damaged, the A tower retains its original arrangement. The wall thickness of the north side of the Rumelifeneri Fort is 2.65 m. The height of the walls varies between 5.8 m and 8.5 m depending on the slope of the land. The battlements on the rampart walk level are 0.95 m thick and 0.62 m high. The top parts of the battlements have collapsed. The firing holes below the walls in this section are 1.8m high on the exterior and 2.3m high on the interior side. The said openings are covered by one and a half brick thick arches.

The Council of Ministers has given permission for excavations in 2010 and since then an expert excavation team, Professor Asnu Bilban Yalçın, Byzantium art history expert, is heading, in collaboration with the Culture and Tourism Ministry and Istanbul University has been working on it. During excavations this year some 80 artifacts have been unearthed and this gave a great excitement to people who are interested in archeology.

Because of the excavations, the castle is now closed to visitors although usually the area is not supervised and visitors are free to walk, crossing a fence torn down, along the outer walls of the castle walking along a dangerous path. The climb in my opinion worth it for the fantastic scenery, although we all hope that the castle will soon reopen its doors to the public.

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POYRAZKÖY GENOESE CASTLE

Poyrazköy, Beykoz - İstanbul - Turkey

GPS : 41°12'29.0"N 29°07'53.0"E / 41.208056, 29.131389



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Poyrazköy is one of the villages nearest to the Black Sea and is located on the Anatolian side of the Istanbul. From the minaret a bridge leads out to the gun emplacements and ammunition stores and a great view. Although the village is located on top of a hill, there is a road leading to the beach just before the village. Poyrazköy is an excellent place for a break or for shelter while sailing from Istanbul to the Black Sea.

Like every settlement in Turkey, Poyrazköy has a mosque. Located along the sea, a sign hanging over the entrance indicates it was built in 1441 and restored in 1990. According to an elderly man who was sitting on a bench facing the sea, there is a sakal-ı şerif (a strand of the Prophet Muhammad’s beard) inside. Poyraz Harbour Castle The distant between here and the cape of Garipçe, on the opposite shore, is 1690 metres. It rises up to about 30 metres above sea level.

The project for this castle was realised by Baron de Tott, recommended by the King of France, who Sultan Mustafa III had consulted on the subject of strengthening the defence systems of Istanbul. In the course of analyses, draws attention to the remains of a similar two-storey, circular structure with a diameter of 22 metres found in the vicinity of Garipçe Castle. The remains of this structure, encircled by alternately small and large flat brick, arched windows, closely resemble the remains in Garipçe.

The Structural Characteristics of Poyrazköy Castle is built on a rectangular plan stretching out to the west and has broken corners, just like the Garipçe Castle on the opposite shore. Its length is 160 metres, and its width has an average of 35 metres. Its concrete additions show that this castle was given more importance that in Garipçe, and that it was used for a longer duration.

Although the village is located on top of a hill, there is a road leading to the beach just before the village. The beach is not very long however but has some cafes and restaurants nearby. Poyrazköy is naturally protected from the rough winds and currents and is therefore a suitable choice for yachts and boats to anchor therefore during the summertime and weekends. It is quite crowed during these times.

Poyrazköy is one of the villages nearest to the Black Sea and is located on the Anatolian side of the Bosphorus. In order to reach this pretty village you must pass Beykoz and about 4 km later follow the Poyrazköy-Anadolu Feneri signs.

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YOROS CASTLE

Anadolu Kavağı, Beykoz - İstanbul - Turkey

GPS : 41°10'43.3"N 29°05'41.5"E / 41.178694, 29.094861



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Yoros Castle (Turkish: Yoros kalesi) is a Byzantine ruined castle at the confluence of the Bosphorus and the Black Sea, to the north of Joshua's Hill, in Istanbul, Turkey. It is also commonly referred to as the Genoese Castle, due to Genoa’s possession of it in the mid-15th century.

Yoros Castle sits on a hill surrounded by steep bluffs overlooking the Bosphorus. It is just north of a small fishing village called Anadolu Kavağı, on Macar Bay, and the entire area is referred to as Anadolu Kavağı. This section is one of the narrowest stretches of the Bosphorus, and on the opposite shore sits an area called Rumeli Kavağı, which formerly held a fortification similar to Yoros Castle. (Anadolu and Rumeli were Ottoman terms for the Anatolian and European parts of the empire).

As the main passage between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, the Bosporus strait had a great commercial and strategic importance during the past. For this reason, numerous castles and fortresses were built on its shores. The fortress of Yoros is one of the most conspicuous of them. It was constructed on a hill at Anadolu Kavağı, on the Asian side of Bosphorus, on the Black Sea entrance.

The villagers of Anadolu Kavağı historically depended mostly on fishing for income, but it appears some may have acted as 'wreckers'. Turkish rumors report that they would light fires in order to disorient ships and ground them in the narrow straits, seizing their goods. Conversely, many claim that Anadolu Kavağı was also used as a shelter for trade ships against storms, where it is recorded even up to three hundred ships were serviced at a time.

Yoros Castle was intermittently occupied throughout the course of the Byzantine Empire. Under the Palaiologos dynasty during the decline of the empire, Yoros Castle was well fortified, as was the Rumeli Kavağı on the opposite side of the Bosphorus. A massive chain could be extended across the Bosphorus between these two points, cutting off the straits to attacking warships, similar to the chain across the Golden Horn which was used to defend Constantinople during the last Ottoman siege by Sultan Mehmed II.

Byzantines, Genoese, and Ottomans fought over this strategic fortification for years. It was first conquered by Ottoman forces in 1305, but retaken by the Byzantines shortly thereafter. Sultan Bayezid I took the castle again in 1391 while preparing for his siege of Constantinople. It was used as his field headquarters during the construction of Anadoluhisarı, one of the more important castles for the siege. In 1399 the Byzantines attempted to take back Yoros Castle. The attack failed, but the village of Anadolu Kavağı was burned to the ground.

The Ottomans held the fortress from 1391-1414, losing it to the Genoese in 1414. The forty-year Genoese occupation lent the castle its moniker of Genoese Castle. Upon Sultan Mehmed II’s conquest of Constantinople in 1453, the presence of the Genoese at such a strategic location posed a threat to the new Ottoman capital. Within a few years, Sultan Mehmed drove the Genoese out. He then fortified the walls, and constructed a customs office, quarantine, and check point, as well as placing a garrison of troops there. Sultan Bayezid II (1481-1512) later added a mosque within the castle walls.

Later Anadolu Kavağı would be an important outpost for the Romans and the Byzantines who are supposed to have built the present fortress in the 13th century. The fortress was first captured by the Ottomans in 1305, only to be recaptured by the Byzantines some time later. Then the Genoese took it over as well as the other fortress, Rumeli Kavağı, across on the European side in 1352 because the Byzantines could no longer defend them. In times of war it is said that there was a heavy chain strung between the two sides to prevent enemy ships from sailing through the Bosphorus. On one occasion, the Venetian and Genoese fleets fought off Anadolu Kavağı.

Sultan Bayezid I (r. 1389-1402) took the castle and used it as his base while Anadolu Hisari (Anatolian Fortress) was being built (1393-94) further down the strait. In 1414, the Genoese managed to seize the castle again and held it until some years after the conquest of Constantinople when Fatih Sultan Mehmed II (r. 1451-1481) decided it might become a threat to the city. He got rid of the Genoese and added fortifications to the castle which then served as a customs and quarantine office. Evliya Çelebi writes that Sultan Beyazit II (r. 1481 to 1512) erected a mosque at the site.

At various times during the Ottoman period, “poplar fortresses” or border and control fortresses were built here and the area got its name in such a way. Sultan Murad IV (r. 1623-40) christened Anadolu Kavağı, and Rumeli Kavağı and Anadolu Kavağı were turned into strong outposts for protecting the mouth of the Bosphorus in the 17th century. The fortifications on both sides of the mouth of the Bosphorus were fortified in 1783 by Toussaint and strengthened by Monnier 11 years later. Little remains of the fortress on the European side.

The first mention of the place is made by the ancient historian Herodotus who describes it as the worship place of Jason and the Argonauts on the road for Cholchis. What is more, many Greek and Roman historical sources describe this place as ‘Hieron’, the Sacred Place. A great temple including altar of the twelve Gods or Zeus Ourios (‘of good winds’) served as a common haven and place of worship for sailors entering or leaving from there in antiquity. Hieron was the gate to the Black Sea.

Additionally, it acted as a spot from which all Black Sea navigational charts took their measurements and the crucial shelter from the numerous dangers involved in negotiating the winding Bosporus: pirates, storms, and wind of the straits. During the early Byzantine epoch, the emperor Justinian (527-565) charged a custom with a tax collector in the fortress. In addition, in the course of the Middle Byzantine period, the place was fortified with a larger wall enclosure and served to control from the north.

Byzantines, Genoese and Ottomans fought over its strategic position of the fort. After a naval battle in 1352, a Genoese military and commercial garrison was settled in the Yoros fortress, to handle the passage of the commercial ships and prevent the attacks to the capital city. Approximately half a century of Genoese occupation gave to it the epithet of ‘The Genoese Fortress’.

By the end of the 14th century the fortress was in the hand of the Ottomans and was used as a base for the construction of the Anadolu Hisar, one of the important headquarters of the Sultan Mehmed for the Conquest of the Byzantine capital in 1453. After this date, the Genoese was not allowed to use the fortress, which became an important garrison place of the Ottoman army for the defence of Istanbul. It was restored many times during the 15th and 17th centuries.

Some say this castle was built by the Byzantines; other say by the Genoese. What it certain is that it stood as an outpost meant to protect traders coming to the city from the south. The two wide bastions that stand at the entrance to this castle are still in good shape. When examining the walls of this castle, one can see Greek inscriptions above the main doors. Those who visit here will encounter a view of İstanbul they have never seen before.

Yoros Castle (Yoros kalesi) is a ruined castle at the confluence of the Bosphorus and the Black Sea, to the north of Joshua’s Hill, in Istanbul. It is also commonly referred to as the Genoese Castle, due to Genoa’s possession of it in the mid-15th century. Sitting on a hill surrounded by steep bluffs overlooking the Bosphorus. It is just north of a small fishing village called Anadolu Kavağı, on Macar Bay, and the entire area is referred to as Anadolu Kavağı.

This section is one of the narrowest stretches of the Bosphorus, and on the opposite shore sits an area called Rumeli Kavağı, which formerly held a fortification similar to Yoros Castle.
Strategically set near the confluence of the Bosphorus and the Black Sea, the future site of Yoros Castle was settled by the Phoenicians and Greeks prior to the Byzantine period for trading and military purposes. The Greeks called the area Hieron (Sacred Place). The remains of temples, including Dios, Altar of the Twelve Gods, and Zeus Ourios (Zeus, granter of fair winds) were discovered in the area, dating to centuries BCE.

One can still see the remains of the old Genoese fortress on the heights of Anadolu Kavağı which was the ancient Hieron. Its name in ancient times was Yoros Fortress. It is said that the origin of the name Yoros was “oros” (mountain) or “ourios” (suitable winds). At the same time, Ourious was one of the names of Zeus. Another source writes that there was a temple to Dios (God), but probably confused Dios for Zeus.

The area was originally settled by Greeks and Phoenicians and the remains of some of the temples erected here have been discovered during archeological excavations. The 16th century French topographer, Petrus Gyllius, associated Yoros with the name for Zeus Ourious while the Hieron or sacred precinct was where a temple to the Twelve Olympian Gods was built. These 12 gods who were related to each other in one way or another are thought to have originated in Anatolia and ruled over the world under the supervision of their leader, Zeus.

Yoros Castle was intermittently occupied throughout the course of the Byzantine Empire. Under the Palaiologos dynasty during the decline of the empire, Yoros Castle was well fortified, as was the Rumeli Kavağı on the opposite side of the Bosphorus. A massive chain could be extended across the Bosphorus between these two points, cutting off the straits to attacking warships, similar to the chain across the Golden Horn which was used to defend Constantinople during the last Ottoman siege by Sultan Mehmed II.

Byzantines, Genoese, and Ottomans fought over this strategic fortification for years. It was first conquered by Ottoman forces in 1305, but retaken by the Byzantines shortly thereafter. Bayezid I took the castle again in 1391 while preparing for his siege of Constantinople. It was used as his field headquarters during the construction of Anadoluhisarı, one of the more important castles for the siege. In 1399 the Byzantines attempted to take back Yoros Castle. The attack failed, but the village of Anadolu Kavağı was burned to the ground.

The Ottomans held the fortress from 1391-1414, losing it to the Genoese in 1414. The forty-year Genoese occupation lent the castle its moniker of Genoese Castle. Upon Fatih Sultan Mehmed’s conquest of Constantinople in 1453, the presence of the Genoese at such a strategic location posed a threat to the new Ottoman capital. Within a few years, Sultan Mehmed drove the Genoese out.

He then fortified the walls, and constructed a customs office, quarantine, and check point, as well as placing a garrison of troops there. Bayezid II (1481-1512) later added a mosque within the castle walls. Cossack raids had plagued the Ottoman Empire throughout its long history. In 1624 a fleet of 150 Cossack caiques sailed across the Black Sea to attack towns and villages near Istanbul. During the reign of the Sultan Beyazıd II (1481-1512) a mosque, a bath and many houses were added for the families of the soldiers.  Many western travellers and Turkish geographers mentioned Yoros and emphasized its strategic importance.

They struck villages inside the Bosphorus, and Sultan Murad IV (1623-1640) refortified Anadolu Kavağı to defend against the fleet. It would prove instrumental in securing the region from seaborne Cossack raids. Under Sultan Osman III (1754-1757), Yoros Castle was once again refortified. Later, in 1783 Sultan Abdülhamid I added more watchtowers. After this period, it gradually fell into disrepair. By the time of the Turkish Republic, the castle was no longer used.

The ruins of the citadel and surrounding walls still exist, though the mosque, most of the towers, and other structures are gone. Yoros Castle and the village of Anadolu Kavağı are a popular day trip from Istanbul. Typically, the site is not supervised and visitors are free to climb all over the ancient walls. However, there are currently archaeological excavations going on and visitors are unable to enter the castle.

Greek inscriptions remain etched on the walls of the castle to this day, along with the symbol of the Palealogus family, who ruled Byzantium until its fall. The military importance of the site cannot be overstated. In fact, much of the area surrounding Yoros Castle is today in the hands of the Turkish military, who have closed off areas to visitors.

Today, a large fortress with an upper citadel surrounded by towers, a monumental entrance, many marble decoration and remain of buildings - discovered with archaeological excavations -  dominates the little village of Anadolu Kavağı.

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TERKOS LAKE

Sarıyer - İstanbul - Turkey

GPS : 41°20'50.0"N 28°34'04.0"E / 41.347222, 28.567778



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It's 50 kilometers to the north of Istanbul on the Black Sea coast, having an area of 25 square kilometers and surrounded by small forests. The lake is fed by Istiranca river so its waters are fresh. It's one of the main fresh water sources of Istanbul using huge pipes connecting to the main water distribution center of the city.

The excessive water from the lake is discharged to the sea, if needed. Nearby the lake, there is a small village bearing the same name of the lake. Fresh water fishing and goose hunting is also possible with special regulations at and around Terkos Lake. There are a couple of country style small hotels around it, and attracts many local people especially during summer weekends.

It is situated in 50 km north -west of Istanbul in the Thrace region, behind the Karaburun. Terkos Lake which is also called Durusu Lake has 25 km square surface area. The deepest place of the lake is eleven meters. Catchment area of the lake is 619 km2. Although it is 2.75 meter higher than the sea level, it does not flow to Black Sea.

Reception Basin of Terkos Lake is small, but there are many runnels carrying water to the lake. Among these runnels, Istrance Runnel carries the most water. After the lake was separated from the sea, its water has become sweet. Approximately 196 million meter cube water enters into Terkos Lake annually. In high rainfall periods this water quantity rises to 237 million meter cube.

Terkos Village is situated near the lake. The lake is named after this village. The village dates back to the year 1000. It was built on the lakeside in the northwest direction of today’s village as a pirate’s bay by the Genoese, on the peninsula known as the inner fortress. It is seen that then the sea and the lake was in contact, but then they were separated by the natural factors. We understand from the remains of the fortress on the peninsula that there was a monastery called Trikos in the inner part of the fortress and that the village and the lake are named after this monastery.

A French ambassador who came to Istanbul in the 19th century sees the drought in the city and invites a delegation from the Ottoman Court to France. The French claim that the water-related problems in the city can be solved indeed. They show the Terkos Lake as a water resource in the sketches they have drawn. The foundations of the today’s factory building is laid in the year 1855 and following the completion of the factory’s construction in 2 years, water is supplied to Istanbul.

These facilities which have been supplying water to Istanbul for a hundred years still exist. The water is taken from the lake and after being purified in the facilities in Kagıthane, is distributed in Istanbul. Since the drought and the population in Istanbul have been increasing in recent years, the water obtained from the probes on the seaside is discharged to the Terkos Lake through pumps in order to meet the water need of the city.

In addition, The Terkos Lake is fishing and hunting place where various wild birds live. Durusu is among the favorite places of hunters. Fishing and bird hunting is available during the hunting season. However only wild duck and goose hunting is allowed. It is forbidden to shoot bird species such as black morass, coot, heron, pelican, and pheasant. The fish variety of the lake is: freshwater perch, salmon, pike, trout, roach, and carp. The lake is shallow and surrounded by rushes and touring by motorboat is not allowed. However there are boats for rent for you to row on the lake.

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